Ladakh
is a land like no other. Bounded by two of the world's mightiest mountain
ranges, the Great Himalaya and the Karakoram, it lies athwart two other,
the Ladakh range and the Zanskar range.
Padum the capital of the ancient kingdom of Zanskar, Padum (3505 m) is the
present day administrative headquarters of the region. With a population of
nearly 1500, Padum can be described as the most populous settlement of Zanskar,
otherwise a very scarcely inhabited valley. Incidentally, it is only in Padum
that there is a community of Muslims constituting nearly half the township's
population, its origin in the area dating from mid 17th century. Lately, Padum
has become a famous as a major trekking base and a popular tourist destination.
Several places of tourist interest in the vicinity of the township can be
visited in the course of entertaining walks. The nearest monument is a set
of ancient rock carving on a huge boulder near the river bank, just below
the old township. These dates from the 8th century and provide epigraphic
evidence that the region was under the influence of North Indian Buddhism
since ancient times. The Starrimo monastery with about 30 resident monks clings
to a tree-covered ridge above the old town. Across the expanse of cultivation
lies the old village of Pibiting, dominated by its picturesque hilltop monastery,
a superb manifestation of stupa architecture.
Stongdey
The monastery of Stongdey lies 18 kms. To the north of Padum, on the road leading
to Zangla. An old foundation associated with the Tibetan Yogi, Marpa, Stongdey
is now the second largest monastic establishment of Zanskar, inhabited by the
resident community of about 60 Gelukpa monks. The sprawling whitewashed complex
has a number of temples, each a repository of the region's rich monastic legacy.
Stongdey can be reached by foot in about 4 hours along the recently laid rough
road. The climb up to the monastery is rather strenuous, but it is worth the
trouble for the breathtaking scenery of the valley available from here.
Zangla
Lying deep in the northern arm of Zanskar at the end of the 35 km. Long rough
road from Padum, Zangla was being ruled by a titular king till his death a
few years back. The old castle now in ruins except from a small chappel, occupies
a hill, overlooking the desertic valley below. Nearby is the old Nunnery worth
a visit for the austere life style of the small monastic community of nuns.
An old monastery situated in the nearby village of Tsa-zar has exquisite frescos
that should be missed. The village lies mid-way between Stongdey and Zangla.
Zangla is the nodal point on the popular Padum-Strongdey-Zangla-Karsha-Padum
round trip, which covers most of the cultural sites of Zanskar. The old rope
suspension bridge spanning the tumultuous Zanskar near Zangla- a rare feat
of folk engineering - is no more in use, but still visible. The river is now
crossed by a temporary footbridge for approaching the left bank along which
the trail to Karsha follows. Zangla is also the take-off point for the Padum-Markha
valley treks.
Zanskar
The Zanskar sub-division of Kargil district is centered around its main settlement
at Padam Four main routes over passes up to 500m converge here from Lahoul
in the Chenab valley, Kishtwar, the Suru valley and Leh. Truly one of the
most desolate places in the Himalaya, Zanskar is known for its spectacular
scale, hardy mountain folk and extreme winter when the Zanskar river freezes
to from the "chador" over which mail runners operate.
A long and winding river of ice and snow, the Drang-Drung" is perhaps
the largest glacier in Ladakh, outside the Siachen formation. It is from the
cliff-like snout of this extensive glacier that the Stod or Doda River, the
main tributary of river Zanskar, rises.
About 20 kms. South of Rangdum stands the Pazila watershed across which lies
Zanskar, the most isolated of all the trans Himalayan Valleys. The Panzila
Top (4401 m) is the picturesque tableland adorned with two small alpine lakes
and surrounded by snow covered peaks. As the Zanskar road winds down the steep
slopes of the watershed to the head of the Stod Valley, one of Zanskar's main
tributary valleys, the majestic "Drang-Drung" glacier looms into
full view. A long and winding river of ice and snow, the Drang-Drung"
is perhaps the largest glacier in Ladakh, outside the Siachen formation. It
is from the cliff-like snout of this extensive glacier that the Stod or Doda
River, the main tributary of river Zanskar, rises.
Zanskar comprises a tri-armed valley system lying between the Great Himalayan
Range and the Zanskar mountain; The three arms radiate star-like towards the
west, north and south from a wide central expanse where the region's two principal
drainage's meet to form the main Zanskar River. It is mainly along the course
of this valley system that the region's 10,000 strong, mainly Buddhists population
lives. Spread over an estimated geographical area of 5000 sq. kms. High rise,
mountains and deep gorges surround Zanskar. The area remains inaccessible
for nearly 8 months a year due to heavy snowfall resulting in closure of all
the access passes, including the Penzi-la. To-day, Zanskar has the distinction
of being the least interfered with microcosms of Ladakh, and one of the last
few surviving cultural satellites of Tibet. Within the mountain ramparts of
this lost Shangrila stand a number of ancient yet active monastic establishments.
Some of these religious foundations have evolved around remote meditation
caves believed to have been used by a succession of famous Buddhist saints
for prolonged meditation in pursuit of knowledge and enlightenment.
The 240 km long Kargil-Padun road, of which the first 90 km stretch is paved,
remains opened from around mid July to early November. In June, the summer is
at its height in the region and the climate is ideal for trekking along the
route free from vehicular traffic of any kind and when the countryside is freshly
rejuvenated into life after months of frigid dormancy.